Got up at 5 am to update the blog and then thought a nap before the trip would provide a bit of a recharge. Woke up at 9:40, so it's clear, this day wasn't going to be as productive as others. First stop: Peggy's Cove - 'cause you've got to see that when in the Maritimes. Passed a guy and his girl on a KLR while negotiating the streets to find Prospect road. He drove up to me at a red light further down the road and asked where I was going. When I told him, he said "follow me, I'm going there as well". So now we have a group ride with a local. He pulls over at a variety store on Prospect road, so I follow. He introduces himself as Trevor, (I forget the ladies' name) and advises me that he is getting something to eat, so I wait, and wait … and it's getting hot in the Klim suit. I'm thinking of bolting when he finally emerges and announces that the line up in there was longer that expected. We get back on the road and I can't help but notice how scenic this area is; exposed rock, with green shrubbery, moss, blocks of stone balanced precariously, like modern sculpture in random areas. It truly lives up to it's reputation as a place of nature beauty.
Peggy's cove is BUSY. The village is quaint with no modern buildings other than a visitor centre that blends nicely into the area. Met several bikers there. One couple, the wife was pregnant and due within a week - she was hoping that the ride would induce labour. Another group of riders was suggesting great rides and commented that yesterday's highway 387, also known as the road to no where, was a government boondoggle to support a paper mill that was never built.
As I entered Peggy's cove, i noticed clouds building over the other shore - right where I was heading. The pregnant couple sitting on the rock were watching lightning bolts from the cloud. The next stage of the ride was going to be wet. I started looking for places to stop and eat during the storm and started getting desperate as the black wall approached, and then, around the corner was the bakery in Seabright. The rain started just after I ordered the hot sub, and since there were only two tables in the bakery, I had the Klim plus OR hat, so I ate outside. First the rain was light, and the light show interesting with loud boomers. Then it got heavy. By the time I went back into the bakery for a date square dessert, my suit was dripping. Met a couple (retired dad and daughter) who were riding a 400cc enduro with no rain gear, since they were travelling in a motor home.
The rain cleared, so I hit the road again. These roads are amazing with great scenery and few passing zones because the road curves so much. There are a lot of bikes on the road in spite of the wet. The cars are a pain though because they drive so slow. At 3pm I was a long way from yarmouth, so I hit the main highway - 255km to Yarmouth. I figure on hour on the highway would allow me to get back on the fine riding coastal road. Within a short time, the dark cloud wall from a massive new storm is in front of me again. The wall of rain clearly visible over the sea. Decision made to divert to Lunenberg where the sky looks less intense. I get there and while sight seeing, it starts to rain. Then to top it off, chunks of hail - the storm did look intense. I got the small stuff. Apparently, some areas had significant hail damage. While talking to Julie, we get a few bit lightning hits and immediate loud thunder booms - one of them clears the street of the few remaining sight seers, who are taking shelter under awnings.
Now it's getting close to 5 - there is no way I'm going to make it to Yarmouth tonight and there is no place to stay between here and there - this is a rural area. There are only quaint inns in Lunenberg - and expensive, so I ask Julie to find me a place. She books a room at Comfort inn in Bridge water 16km away (thanks Julie). On the drive there, I notice that the road is littered with leaf clusters and branches. Further down the road is an entire tree freshly downed - and there are more of these cells on the road to Yarmouth, so yes, that's it for today (and this stage of the trip)
I had planned to ride the entire coast the next day and find my way back to Dartmouth to visit Andrea. They I would head home. There isn't enough time to do that so tomorrow, I'm heading back to Dartmouth and then starting the trip home. Andy is having a birthday party for Karlee and I want to be there.
I'm a bit disappointed over the prospect of missing the best roads in this part of the maritimes, but hey, need to leave something for the next ride. Plus, my back tire is getting really low on tread, and I have Mount Washington and Lake Placid to look forward to.
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