I am writing this in the breakfast lounge of the Camel's Garden Hotel in Telluride, enjoying the view of the gondola lift that starts right outside of the hotel. From our room, the river that flows from the mountain provides those babbling moving water sounds that help you fall asleep, which city people can only experience as a weak facsimile from a machine on their headboard. There is still snow at the top of the lifts.
In true adventure form, we ended up here by accident.
We left Moab a bit late in the morning. One rest day off the bikes and every one was bumbling, as if they never did this before. It took forever to pack. In fairness, we washed the jeans, which were mud and horse poop splattered from yesterday's trail ride in the desert. Tom took the time to wash his baby and Dave returned to the fossil store to buy this incredible piece of petrified wood. He is a stone collector so this is the stone to end all stones. Actually the store had so many unique fossils, dinosaur bones and minerals, that one could get lost for hours. The proprietor had so much knowledge, that it was like a museum tour. Jeff and Josh went off to the motor vehicle licensing authority to see if the could get a temporary plate to replace the original that fell off Josh's bike during one of the ride days. Bad news - plates can't be replaced, so a facsimile is created using fibre board. Hopefully we don't get pulled over.
The original plan was to make it to Durango, to set the stage for a push into northern Colorado. The scenic route is the long way and this was going to take full daylight hours to make it. A navigation error increases our riding pleasure but throws a spanner into the plan. We end up in Telluride.
Moab to Telluride via the direct route is only 133 miles or 3 hours, but we decide to take a the scenic route end up repeating one of the nicest roads every, three times, by accident. Since one doesn't want to be in the mountains at night, we roll into Telluride as the sun is setting.
We take the road that follows the Colorado river as a "short cut" to Highway 70 and pass by the riding stables from the night before. It's hot 35C and our evaporative water cooling disappears rapidly. The heat also makes the tar snakes excessively slippery. Tom is already nervous and one section is so bad both of us are forced into the oncoming lane - and we couldn't really have been driving any slower. My handlebars were shaking as the front tire slipped from snake, grabbed a bit of asphalt, next snake, asphalt, until we were in the oncoming lane. There should be standards for how much tar can be placed on a road. Perhaps the qualifications for those who make road standards should include owning and riding a motorcycle.
We are wearing full armour and the mostly Harley driving Utans, sans helmets wave, likely thinking "silly hans and franz drivers" When it's this hot, it's really tempting to strip down, but rules are rules. Besides the heat is fatiguing and one wants to be wearing a full suit - just in case.
Highway 141 winds through river valley and mountain top. The road is isolated and provides long curving sweepers that make riding a ton of fun. As always, the vistas are spectacular, but I am affected by the heat and can't concentrate. The ride to Gateway is a blur - somewhat dangerous but I don't want to hold back the guys so early in a ride where every minute counts if we want to make the proposed destination. We stop in gateway for fuel and I open up 5 hour vitamin energy beverage and douse myself with water. It's lunch time and I fear that eating will make the drowsies worse. Fortunately, there is no where to eat on this entire stretch of road. I'm not kidding - nothing until we get to Telluride. Any restaurants we pass on the road are closed, and the only option would be snack food from one of the few open gas stations. Obviously, tourism and mining are not big in this area. Too bad.
This is one of the most beautiful stretches of roads we have been on. The San Miguel and Dolores rivers provides plenty of water and the scenery is green where plants and trees can grow and the steep mountain sides (we are in a canyon) show fascinating red designs that force us to slow down so we can appreciate the scene. We are hauling ass through this road because it consists of well planned long sweepers that can be run in 4th to 6th gear. That means high speed fun. Mindful of the fact that the valley is also an active grazing field for cattle, we rip through the section, later agreeing that this was one of the most fun riding roads on the trip. Highly recommended for anyone who plans a motorcycle trip.
We see several ruins and half way through - the remnants of sluiceway that is designated a historic site. This structure is installed in the vertical side of a 1,000 foot cliff and was designed to deliver water to a gold panning operation that failed because the gold was too fine to be recovered by the sluice method. On our first stop here, we water up, grab a snack of beef jerky (i had a big bag from a prior day) and explore a bit. A competition emerges to see who can throw the biggest rock into the river way below. It' interesting how long the rocks fly before the splash down into the river. Josh and Tom win the contest. Across the river, a vehicle stops and it's inhabitants practice yodelling - we yodel back - LOL, 50 years cannot take the boy out of a grown man.
For some reason, we mistake our position on the map, thinking we missed the turn off to highway 145, we turn around to return to gateway, were we think the 145 cut off exists. No need to twist our arms to re-ride one of the best roads ever. I program Naturita into the GPS to verify the path and funny, it says turn around as soon as possible - ha, must be taking some other route - the map never lies and GPS is just a navigation aid. Tom and Dave lead the ride an we are just pounding the road. I keep up with them most of the route. The 49 return miles fly by in no time at all. In the mean time, the estimated time of arrival on my GPS just keeps getting longer and longer. Back at Gateway we study the map one more time, consult the GPS and realize our mistake. We need to go back - darn, ride one of the best roads a third time. We certainly get our quota of great riding, but there is no way we can make Durango. We'll try to get a room in one of the towns on the way.
I lead the third leg since Tom is tired. Dave follows because he can't get enough of these roads. I fear that my riding will hold him back but my bike is hot and we pull out way in front of the pack. I'm practicing getting over the bike in turns so my body is more vertical, which allows the bike to lean over harder. This supports better cornering and higher speeds. I am reving the snot out of the bike so it's on max power coming out of turns. This time we pass cattle on the road - slam the binders and slow down - these things are a dumb as deer and bigger. We want beef but not this raw. Dave waits for Josh to warn him to slow down.
At the historical site, where we first stopped, Dave takes over the lead. I'm bushed and Josh takes over as #2. The road starts to rise up to a plateau and with altitude comes cooler temperatures. The plateau is flat as a prairie and lush green, like Ontario in the spring. We need an early gas stop since the high revs forces a fill up after 225 km. Dave chuckles that jerky is Mike's spinach - at first he thought he might be pushing me and then he realized that I was coming out of the corners faster than he, so he had to step on it to keep up. I know he was riding well below his level, but his kind words make my ride feel even better. I learned a bit on that stretch and am a better rider because of it.
We see just how high the plateau is when we descend into the valley that eventually leads us to Telluride. There is not place to eat, so we decide to wait 'til we find a room. Another spectacular road with a completely different terrain. Telluride looks like Ouray, only a bit bigger. It's another little switzerland, complete with ski hill. As we enter the town, I see the Blackthorn trail in the distance. EndertheX documented his ride down that trail on his F800GS and the switchbacks were so tight he came 6 inches from dropping his bike over an edge that would have resulted in disaster. He did his ride at the end of June, but we can see that today, the trail still has snow on it. There is a huge waterfall at the top, with a power generating station and a private residence that crosses the river. I've only seen pictures.
We end up with a great room at the Camel Gardens. The rate is $139 but during the film festival it's $750. The guys are happy with this stroke of luck. At dinner, we get our meat and Josh is discovered by a blonde flight attendant who seems to prefer him to her date. The bar is offering $2 draft Schlitz and they boys are thirsty. I am tired and hit bed at 10:30. Josh heads out to the bars, with Dave and Tom as chaperones - need to protect him from the local female predators. The door opens at 2:30 and Josh spills in. He will be hurting today.
Today's ride takes to south fork to pick up my hydro pack and then we head north.
pictures to follow.
In true adventure form, we ended up here by accident.
We left Moab a bit late in the morning. One rest day off the bikes and every one was bumbling, as if they never did this before. It took forever to pack. In fairness, we washed the jeans, which were mud and horse poop splattered from yesterday's trail ride in the desert. Tom took the time to wash his baby and Dave returned to the fossil store to buy this incredible piece of petrified wood. He is a stone collector so this is the stone to end all stones. Actually the store had so many unique fossils, dinosaur bones and minerals, that one could get lost for hours. The proprietor had so much knowledge, that it was like a museum tour. Jeff and Josh went off to the motor vehicle licensing authority to see if the could get a temporary plate to replace the original that fell off Josh's bike during one of the ride days. Bad news - plates can't be replaced, so a facsimile is created using fibre board. Hopefully we don't get pulled over.
The original plan was to make it to Durango, to set the stage for a push into northern Colorado. The scenic route is the long way and this was going to take full daylight hours to make it. A navigation error increases our riding pleasure but throws a spanner into the plan. We end up in Telluride.
Moab to Telluride via the direct route is only 133 miles or 3 hours, but we decide to take a the scenic route end up repeating one of the nicest roads every, three times, by accident. Since one doesn't want to be in the mountains at night, we roll into Telluride as the sun is setting.
We take the road that follows the Colorado river as a "short cut" to Highway 70 and pass by the riding stables from the night before. It's hot 35C and our evaporative water cooling disappears rapidly. The heat also makes the tar snakes excessively slippery. Tom is already nervous and one section is so bad both of us are forced into the oncoming lane - and we couldn't really have been driving any slower. My handlebars were shaking as the front tire slipped from snake, grabbed a bit of asphalt, next snake, asphalt, until we were in the oncoming lane. There should be standards for how much tar can be placed on a road. Perhaps the qualifications for those who make road standards should include owning and riding a motorcycle.
We are wearing full armour and the mostly Harley driving Utans, sans helmets wave, likely thinking "silly hans and franz drivers" When it's this hot, it's really tempting to strip down, but rules are rules. Besides the heat is fatiguing and one wants to be wearing a full suit - just in case.
Highway 141 winds through river valley and mountain top. The road is isolated and provides long curving sweepers that make riding a ton of fun. As always, the vistas are spectacular, but I am affected by the heat and can't concentrate. The ride to Gateway is a blur - somewhat dangerous but I don't want to hold back the guys so early in a ride where every minute counts if we want to make the proposed destination. We stop in gateway for fuel and I open up 5 hour vitamin energy beverage and douse myself with water. It's lunch time and I fear that eating will make the drowsies worse. Fortunately, there is no where to eat on this entire stretch of road. I'm not kidding - nothing until we get to Telluride. Any restaurants we pass on the road are closed, and the only option would be snack food from one of the few open gas stations. Obviously, tourism and mining are not big in this area. Too bad.
This is one of the most beautiful stretches of roads we have been on. The San Miguel and Dolores rivers provides plenty of water and the scenery is green where plants and trees can grow and the steep mountain sides (we are in a canyon) show fascinating red designs that force us to slow down so we can appreciate the scene. We are hauling ass through this road because it consists of well planned long sweepers that can be run in 4th to 6th gear. That means high speed fun. Mindful of the fact that the valley is also an active grazing field for cattle, we rip through the section, later agreeing that this was one of the most fun riding roads on the trip. Highly recommended for anyone who plans a motorcycle trip.
We see several ruins and half way through - the remnants of sluiceway that is designated a historic site. This structure is installed in the vertical side of a 1,000 foot cliff and was designed to deliver water to a gold panning operation that failed because the gold was too fine to be recovered by the sluice method. On our first stop here, we water up, grab a snack of beef jerky (i had a big bag from a prior day) and explore a bit. A competition emerges to see who can throw the biggest rock into the river way below. It' interesting how long the rocks fly before the splash down into the river. Josh and Tom win the contest. Across the river, a vehicle stops and it's inhabitants practice yodelling - we yodel back - LOL, 50 years cannot take the boy out of a grown man.
For some reason, we mistake our position on the map, thinking we missed the turn off to highway 145, we turn around to return to gateway, were we think the 145 cut off exists. No need to twist our arms to re-ride one of the best roads ever. I program Naturita into the GPS to verify the path and funny, it says turn around as soon as possible - ha, must be taking some other route - the map never lies and GPS is just a navigation aid. Tom and Dave lead the ride an we are just pounding the road. I keep up with them most of the route. The 49 return miles fly by in no time at all. In the mean time, the estimated time of arrival on my GPS just keeps getting longer and longer. Back at Gateway we study the map one more time, consult the GPS and realize our mistake. We need to go back - darn, ride one of the best roads a third time. We certainly get our quota of great riding, but there is no way we can make Durango. We'll try to get a room in one of the towns on the way.
I lead the third leg since Tom is tired. Dave follows because he can't get enough of these roads. I fear that my riding will hold him back but my bike is hot and we pull out way in front of the pack. I'm practicing getting over the bike in turns so my body is more vertical, which allows the bike to lean over harder. This supports better cornering and higher speeds. I am reving the snot out of the bike so it's on max power coming out of turns. This time we pass cattle on the road - slam the binders and slow down - these things are a dumb as deer and bigger. We want beef but not this raw. Dave waits for Josh to warn him to slow down.
At the historical site, where we first stopped, Dave takes over the lead. I'm bushed and Josh takes over as #2. The road starts to rise up to a plateau and with altitude comes cooler temperatures. The plateau is flat as a prairie and lush green, like Ontario in the spring. We need an early gas stop since the high revs forces a fill up after 225 km. Dave chuckles that jerky is Mike's spinach - at first he thought he might be pushing me and then he realized that I was coming out of the corners faster than he, so he had to step on it to keep up. I know he was riding well below his level, but his kind words make my ride feel even better. I learned a bit on that stretch and am a better rider because of it.
We see just how high the plateau is when we descend into the valley that eventually leads us to Telluride. There is not place to eat, so we decide to wait 'til we find a room. Another spectacular road with a completely different terrain. Telluride looks like Ouray, only a bit bigger. It's another little switzerland, complete with ski hill. As we enter the town, I see the Blackthorn trail in the distance. EndertheX documented his ride down that trail on his F800GS and the switchbacks were so tight he came 6 inches from dropping his bike over an edge that would have resulted in disaster. He did his ride at the end of June, but we can see that today, the trail still has snow on it. There is a huge waterfall at the top, with a power generating station and a private residence that crosses the river. I've only seen pictures.
We end up with a great room at the Camel Gardens. The rate is $139 but during the film festival it's $750. The guys are happy with this stroke of luck. At dinner, we get our meat and Josh is discovered by a blonde flight attendant who seems to prefer him to her date. The bar is offering $2 draft Schlitz and they boys are thirsty. I am tired and hit bed at 10:30. Josh heads out to the bars, with Dave and Tom as chaperones - need to protect him from the local female predators. The door opens at 2:30 and Josh spills in. He will be hurting today.
Today's ride takes to south fork to pick up my hydro pack and then we head north.
pictures to follow.
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