This leg of the journey was a major highlight of the trip.
The day starts cool with threats of rain. Big Bend only gets two inches of rain per year, so this is a big deal for them. It's warm so the rain will cool us down - we are not worried.
The start of the ride is flat, but soon we start seeing hills. Off in the distance we see mountains. We stop for gas in Sanderson and meet a retired gentleman who shares his stories of riding in California (that happens at every stop). He is clearly educated and knows a lot about the region. On parting, he asks us if we made reservations in big bend, it's memorial day weekend and the park will be busy for it's limited accommodations. Opps, we didn't think about it, but Adventure Amigos adapt - so it's off we go.
It's been overcast all day but as we head down 385, a straight line to the park, we see blue skies clearing over the mountains. It's getting hot and we don the cooling gear. It's $10 per bike to enter the park and speed limit drops to 45. That's OK because the scenery is unbelievable. We slow down and drink in the features of the plains and the mountains that surround the ride. These are real mountains .... in Texas - who knew? The roads follow the terrain, unlike commercial roads, which carve through the country side. While the artificial ribbon cuts through the dessert, it's lines actually enhance the natural beauty. If I was making a movie about touring, this is a must shoot location. The rain has brought the dessert to life. The road is fringed with an almost florescent greet shrubbery that only comes to lift in the rain. Just off the road, plants are pushing out bright flowers. It's breath taking. Over in the distance, the storm is hovering just above the mountain and the sheets of rain, make a curtain that obscures that part of the dessert. The occasional stab of lightning provides a spectacular show and it's corresponding thunder rattles your body as it rolls across the open spaces. Don't see this in the city.
We are hoping for a room at a camp high in the mountains. The road up is similar to Pikes peak only in miniature. The path follows the easiest route so we circle a bowl but there are steep sections with hairpin turns (we live for that), however, the rain washed a lot of gravel on the road, so that greatly tempers our need for speed. I get to the top first so it's off to book a room. The drive through the parking lot looks good, not a lot of cars. The experience at the desk, not so good. I ask for rooms, the guy looks at my gear, pauses and says one room, one bed only. Perhaps they don't like bikers here. Perhaps they were full. I get the feel from body language that the hikers, bird lovers and like, think we'll disrupt their peace and oneness with nature. We sure would have enjoyed the views (there were spectacular) but it's time to move to plan B. There are towns just out side of the park with options. The easter egg motel is recommended but someone else tells us it's cheap but run down. That's the risk of adventure amigoing.
The ride out of the park is amazing. Big long sweepers as we descend from altitude. The storms stay over the mountain and skys clear as we get closer to "town". The motels are really run down. Easteregg is run by hippies. We try Terlingua Ghost town and, while the town looks very interesting, accommodation looks sketchy. As we stop to take a picture at the sign, a lady in a beat up old ford pickup yells at us for blocking the road, and heads into town. Oh my, angry residents.
The local hang out is called the Starlight theatre and it's a happening place. At the top of the hill is an abandoned mansion that provides excellent photos (to be posted soon).
We hit the road to see what's in the next town at the part information centre. This is promising - it's a full service gold resort, but the cost is steep. We decide to check Terlingua again. The ride back is spectacular, the sun is setting and it's painting the mountains with a full colour palette. One in particular is red/orange on it's tip with a golden brown in the middle.
We end up at the El Dorado, it's a bit cheesy but it's close to the Starlight. Dinner is very good with excellent live music. Terlingua has a vibrant artist community. Outside, a guitarist/singer with his violin friend is serenading with a very unique style that is reminiscent of 20's sound with folk music. We meet all sorts of interesting people from all over the world and economic strata. A single mom and her daughter are having fun in front of the general store, which provides professional hula hoops. Way off in the corner is a local nursing a case of beer, who scowls at us, at the children. Obviously some locals are not happy.
We hang around after dinner and Jeff and Cipi take an evening ride into the mountains. Josh and Ryan make friends with the locals but we are tired and walk back to the rooms. It's dark, and we wander from side to side with help from out iPhones. What a day.
The day starts cool with threats of rain. Big Bend only gets two inches of rain per year, so this is a big deal for them. It's warm so the rain will cool us down - we are not worried.
The start of the ride is flat, but soon we start seeing hills. Off in the distance we see mountains. We stop for gas in Sanderson and meet a retired gentleman who shares his stories of riding in California (that happens at every stop). He is clearly educated and knows a lot about the region. On parting, he asks us if we made reservations in big bend, it's memorial day weekend and the park will be busy for it's limited accommodations. Opps, we didn't think about it, but Adventure Amigos adapt - so it's off we go.
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| Abandoned town on the way to Marathon |
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| Catus in bloom. Note: no place for sandals. Cactus needles everywhere. |
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| Picture frame window |
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| I think Eddie was here, and perhaps he was fast (at what???) |
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| Entrance to the road that take us to Big Bend park is the ghost town of Marathon. The train station is some kind of time warp. |
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| One of many vehicles parked at Marathon train station. These will have great value for a collector in the future. |
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| South takes us to Big Bend |
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| The park is beautiful. This is the view to the North |
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| This is the view to the south and the mountains of Texas |
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| That's a mile high |
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| El Capitain |
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| Looking forward to the ride to the top |
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| The mountain top captures more moisture so it's a lot greener here |
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| The way to the famous Terlingua Ghost town. It is without a doubt, one of the coolest (as in "cool baby") places on this earth. . Most of the year, it's HOT as hades |
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| We stayed here (El Dorado Motel) |
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| A rare sight in this area. Cold front bringing rain. The area only gets 2 inches of rain a year and the locals were delighted with this batch. We could have done without. |
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| The sign was wobbling. Note: bottom left corner of sign holds sticker from prior touring bands of rouges. |
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| Abandoned mansion is still being used to BBQ. Note rain in the left background. |
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| Bikes parked in front of the abandoned mansion in Terlingua (up the hill) |
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| Garçon, a cold beer por favor |
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| A sight we though we'd never see - a Concours off road |
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| Adventure Amigos at the abandoned mansion |
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| We need a close up |
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| Is someone living here??? |
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| My house |
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| What't the wifi code? |
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| I can sleep anywhere. These ghosts have nice couches |
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| I am sleeping anywhere. Is that ghost in your dreams male or female. What are you afraid they will steal? |
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| Rain is coming our way |
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| Not fast enough for this guy |
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| A surprising corner in Terlingua. Adds to the mystique |
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| Time for a beer. |
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| Spill your beer here |
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| What can we say about the view from Terlingua, Starlight theatre porch. |
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| More spectacular |
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| Would you believe we are in Texas |
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| Old stuff stays a long time |
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| Doing the Hula beside the Starlight theatre |
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| The starlight theatre is the real deal |
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| One of the best breakfasts on the entire trip. Finally, good coffee in Texas (they don't seem to care about good coffee) |
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| A good breakfast gets us ready for another great ride. |
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| Adding fuel and water for the day. Mexico is just behind the camera. |
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| Abandoned rail station in Marathon |
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| Recovery at Marathon (just before Big Bend) |
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| Entrance to Big Bend |
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| Storms over the Mountains (Big Bend) |
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| Abandoned mansion Terlingua |
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| Lounging at the mansion |
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| View from Starlight Theater |
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| Big Bend from Terlingua. What a view. |
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| Mountain roads. Mexico to the right |
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| Observatory perspective of the storm |
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| mountain view |
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| The one and only |
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| Mountain road |
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| best breakfast and coffee on the trip (so far) |
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| Starlight theatre at dusk |
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| Del Rio at the border |
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| we heeded the advice |
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| Strong like bull, smart like street car |
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| I farted |
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| Gotta watch those dips in the road. The puddle might be deeper than you think |
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| ladies of Germany |
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| New Toy |
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| Our travel mascot. |
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| beer amigos |
It's been overcast all day but as we head down 385, a straight line to the park, we see blue skies clearing over the mountains. It's getting hot and we don the cooling gear. It's $10 per bike to enter the park and speed limit drops to 45. That's OK because the scenery is unbelievable. We slow down and drink in the features of the plains and the mountains that surround the ride. These are real mountains .... in Texas - who knew? The roads follow the terrain, unlike commercial roads, which carve through the country side. While the artificial ribbon cuts through the dessert, it's lines actually enhance the natural beauty. If I was making a movie about touring, this is a must shoot location. The rain has brought the dessert to life. The road is fringed with an almost florescent greet shrubbery that only comes to lift in the rain. Just off the road, plants are pushing out bright flowers. It's breath taking. Over in the distance, the storm is hovering just above the mountain and the sheets of rain, make a curtain that obscures that part of the dessert. The occasional stab of lightning provides a spectacular show and it's corresponding thunder rattles your body as it rolls across the open spaces. Don't see this in the city.
We are hoping for a room at a camp high in the mountains. The road up is similar to Pikes peak only in miniature. The path follows the easiest route so we circle a bowl but there are steep sections with hairpin turns (we live for that), however, the rain washed a lot of gravel on the road, so that greatly tempers our need for speed. I get to the top first so it's off to book a room. The drive through the parking lot looks good, not a lot of cars. The experience at the desk, not so good. I ask for rooms, the guy looks at my gear, pauses and says one room, one bed only. Perhaps they don't like bikers here. Perhaps they were full. I get the feel from body language that the hikers, bird lovers and like, think we'll disrupt their peace and oneness with nature. We sure would have enjoyed the views (there were spectacular) but it's time to move to plan B. There are towns just out side of the park with options. The easter egg motel is recommended but someone else tells us it's cheap but run down. That's the risk of adventure amigoing.
The ride out of the park is amazing. Big long sweepers as we descend from altitude. The storms stay over the mountain and skys clear as we get closer to "town". The motels are really run down. Easteregg is run by hippies. We try Terlingua Ghost town and, while the town looks very interesting, accommodation looks sketchy. As we stop to take a picture at the sign, a lady in a beat up old ford pickup yells at us for blocking the road, and heads into town. Oh my, angry residents.
The local hang out is called the Starlight theatre and it's a happening place. At the top of the hill is an abandoned mansion that provides excellent photos (to be posted soon).
We hit the road to see what's in the next town at the part information centre. This is promising - it's a full service gold resort, but the cost is steep. We decide to check Terlingua again. The ride back is spectacular, the sun is setting and it's painting the mountains with a full colour palette. One in particular is red/orange on it's tip with a golden brown in the middle.
We end up at the El Dorado, it's a bit cheesy but it's close to the Starlight. Dinner is very good with excellent live music. Terlingua has a vibrant artist community. Outside, a guitarist/singer with his violin friend is serenading with a very unique style that is reminiscent of 20's sound with folk music. We meet all sorts of interesting people from all over the world and economic strata. A single mom and her daughter are having fun in front of the general store, which provides professional hula hoops. Way off in the corner is a local nursing a case of beer, who scowls at us, at the children. Obviously some locals are not happy.
We hang around after dinner and Jeff and Cipi take an evening ride into the mountains. Josh and Ryan make friends with the locals but we are tired and walk back to the rooms. It's dark, and we wander from side to side with help from out iPhones. What a day.
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